Part Twelve: Parma, Bologna!

Successive update number two! This one is all about two delightful Italian cities, Bologna and Parma, which I spent a night each in. Now I know, I know, you may be saying but Steve how come you the words Florence or Venice haven't popped up here yet? The truth is, for some reason, the magnetic draw was just not there for me. What was guiding me was my stomach, and Parma and Bologna, in the gastronomically famous Emilia Romagna region, were calling me over. I just had to get myself some of those authentic, famous regional dishes.

After Trento, I had a relatively short ride into Bologna that was complicated by a late train and the fact that they don't read the stops aloud! Ugh, it was so annoying. Usually, I just go by the time and recognize when I need to stop and then start looking for my stop around 10 minutes before. This plan does not work when the train is not running on time and they do not say how far behind it is. Needless to say, it was a slightly stressful trip... and it would only grow more so.

I arrived and burst upon the Bologna streets straight into an absolutely pouring rain. I hate rain. I can now say that I truly do. Ok, not those little summer rain showers or squalls about the lake, but the relentless downpours are just unnecessary. Because there did not seem to be too many places to stay in Bologna, I ended up in a single room on the outskirts of the city. In order to get there, I had to catch a bus which seemed simple enough. I boarded and waited for my stop. Busses are even more stressful for me than trains. There are no signs on the street and the announcements can barely be heard amongst the loud voices of fellow passengers.

I rode for a while but something seemed wrong. Most people were off the bus and I went and I asked the bus driver. It was then that I found out that I had taken the bus in the wrong direction! Slightly defeated, I got off and crossed to the other side of the street and caught the next bus. I was wet and feeling a little miserable, starting to get frustrated. The next bus going my way finally arrived where I was greeted by a very drunk man who wanted to know my name and where I was from. I probably shouldn't have told him America, maybe I should have pulled the Canada trick, but he started shouting "USA!" which made me slightly embarrassed and then asked if I liked Obama. Yes, I replied. He then told me that Obama was "the big man America!" and that America was the "evolution, no the revolution!" then I think he started singing Bob Marley songs. Normally, I would have found it amusing but in my current state it was less than such.

He got off soon enough and I kept on riding along. I finally reached my hotel and checked in and flopped down on my bed. I don't know what had me so overwhelmed but I needed some time to unwind. It was a perfect coincidence that I had a single that day. I decided to take a shower and by the time I got out I was feeling good. I got a map and headed outside and it had mostly stopped raining! Woo. My mood was on the rise and I was feeling much better. I caught the bus back into town and set out to explore.

I was privy to another beautiful Italian city. I walked along the main road and then ducked out into the university area. Bologna's university is the oldest in Europe, founded in 1088! Wow. That is sort of astounding in itself. The grounds aren't the original, I believe they were relocated during the Napoleanic wars, but they are still quite old and the University vibe was great. For some reason, it was really nice to be on a campus. I don't know that I missed it but it was sort of comforting. All around were posters and flyers and banners about events or social change type things and there was something homey about it. Not to mention the buildings were really pretty.

My walk took me to the two towers, which were a cool site. One of the towers, the shorter one, is on a serious tilt and it seems impossible that it is still standing. What is it with these tilted Italian buildings? Is it the ground or what? Either way, it made for a cool site.

I turned up the street and got to the main piazza in time to see the sights there before the it was dark. There was a massive cathedral, though it wasn't really that attractive in my opinion, and lots of other historic churches and buildings. I really like the piazza/plaza concept. The squares are always so cool and it was nice to get back to the similar set up that I experienced in Spain. It just makes so much sense to me that there is a central square where most things lead to.

I toured around a bit and then went to find a place to get some food. Unfortunately, I would have to wait as the Italian schedule is quite late and restaurants rarely, if ever, open before 7. Not to fret though, I wandered some more and then employed one of my new favorite backpacking tricks. I often find that since I have a general European guide, there isn't a whole lot of information on specifics in the cities. So, what I have started to do if I have a free minute is go into a bookstore, find a specific guide, and pick out things. I write them down and copy the directions and everything and then I have a better sense on where to go if I haven't picked out places before hand.

The guides all listed one particular street with good, reasonably priced eateries and I headed there. I found a little place and had myself a big old plate of pasta bolognese. I was in Bologna after all so it only made sense that I eat the pasta that bears the city's name. It was so good. I've had many a bolognese and tried many as well but this was the real deal. Fresh pasta, nice fresh sauce, good seasonings. It was great and now I have a new reference point for the next time I make a batch myself.

Full of pasta and worn out from my rollercoaster of a day, I headed back to the hotel for some much needed rest.

I slept well and awoke the next day to head off to Parma. Prosciutto di Parma andcheese were on my mind and I couldn't wait. Unfortunately, the rain refused to give me a break. On the brighter side of things, I had a much easier trip there. I was able to catch a train right when I got to the station and it was a relatively easy ride. I exited the train into Parmagianno a harder pouring rain and set off for a long walk to the hostel. I arrived soaking wet, but not down at all this time! I was determined not to let the weather get me down.

I checked in to another really drab, boring Hostel International building which only furthered my conviction that there was no reason to have a membership and to stay in these places. It was cold and unfriendly but luckily I didn't hang around long. Despite the pouring rain, I went to see the sites. I figured I could at least duck into a museum if it got too wet. Well, I would find out that was not so as most of the museums closed around 2 and I was unaware of this during my sight seeing.

Parma itself was beautiful. I loved the old buildings and piazzas. Along the main road, there was an old building that housed a number of museums. Beyond that was a central Piazza with tons of restaurants and cafes. There was a building with the coolest sundial sort of thing on it with all different times on it. The buildings were just gorgeous. I lingered a bit and wandered around. After that, I headed over to the Piazza Duomo, where the truly historic sites are. There sat a giant cathedral and a tall octagonal baptistery. I attempted to go inside, but again I was in those dead hours when things are closed! I saw the exteriors and decided to return later on.

I headed over to a park which was really cool and really made me wish for some sun but instead the raid just kept on going. The park had a bunch of cool paths and ponds but I just couldn't take the rain anymore and I went back to shower off the cold and dry myself off. Before I returned to the hostel, I stopped at a grocery store to grab some things I needed. I have to admit, it was sort of depressing. The place was like a Wal Mart and here I was in a place known for its food yet people were buying up frozen pasta and packaged meats. I don't know that I can blame American trends for this but it is hard not to when everywhere there are signs for "to-go" and "take out" which are all written in English. The fact that they are not translate makes me feel like they are a firmly American concept. I know that its not just America that speaks English, don't get me wrong, but we are the country of fast food and to go orders so I can't help but think it comes from us. It made me a little sad but made me feel as though I had to go out and get myself some authentic food.

After I dried myself off, I went back to the Duomo and was able to see the cathedral and baptistery. Both were absolutely spectacular. The entire baptistery was painted, probably up about 4 stories with beautiful biblical scenes. It was amazing to just walk in circles and stare up at the scenes. Next, I headed to the cathedral where I was treated to even more amazing frescoes and paintings. It is incredible how much detail and work went into painting these holy places. In a way, for me, it is almost sort of eerie. I can't quite explain it, maybe it was just the rain and the darkness, but something about these places had a really interesting energy. Either way, I was glad that I got to see these spectacular sights.

My last stop was a restaurant housed in a 16th century building. I sat down and ordered myself a nice basic dinner. I truly believe that I won't be able to understand a cuisine without getting at the base flavors and simplest dishes. Simple is not to say that there is not a depth and complexity of flavor, but just that chefs are treating the ingredients of the area in a very basic way. I had a plate of Prosciutto di Parma and Parmiagano cheese. They sliced the Prosciutto to order on old, early 1900s slicers which shone with a glint that showed they had been taken care of throughout all those years.

The ham was divine and the cheese was so good. Way better than whatever is being imported to America right now. I must say though, the prosciutto was not quite what the serrano was in Spain. The prosciutto had a lighter flavor, while the serrano a more smoky, deeper flavor. Though, the comparison is not worth much because they are different things and both are fantastic in their own ways. I followed that up with a simple risotto with that same cheese I had just sampled. It was so creamy and deliciously salty. The risotto had a nice bite and it was so nice to have something so simple and delicious.

I was quite happy and very please to have sampled the dishes of the region. I paired it with a local red wine that held up well to both dishes and it was all quite heavenly. It put me to sleep a happy traveler again and I was loving Italy, which is quite something considering my shoes were soaked and my jacket soggy with rain. But it didn't matter, the food and wine had warmed me and the sights were incredible.

Parma and Bologna! What great cities. I am really glad I chose to see them. They were a perfect balance for my culinary appetite and my cultural curiosity. After a little while away from culinary pursuits, it was nice to be eating great dishes and getting a feel for hundreds of years of history. Italy is a pretty amazing place and there is so much to see that I know I will have to return again!

Hope everyone is doing just swell out there! Keep on scrolling down for the next update!