Part Four: Paris, Update Two!

Hello! Hard to believe this is already my last night in Paris! I can't believe how fast it has gone; it is already February. I have truly been enjoying Paris. I'll start by saying that this blog post probably won't be as full of sightseeing and monuments as the past few; I am not sure why. It certainly is not a negative thing for me though. For some reason, Paris is the first place that I feel I have really slowed down to a certain point. I have had time to do some planning and some writing. I haven't rushed around to see every single thing there is to see (this place is huge, that would be impossible). I guess I am just sort of in a different mindset here, there is something about Paris. But I still have lots to say and many great things to tell!

So, Saturday. After we all woke up (Hannah, Rebecca, and I), we made some breakfast and then set out to meet another Trinity girl to head off to a museum. We chose the Musee d'Orsay, which I must say was a fantastic choice. I can't believe the lines at museums in Paris! I have never experienced such a thing in America for anything related to art or museums in general. I sort of felt as though I was waiting for the next Harry Potter movie or something. Anyway, waiting in line wasn't bad/ In fact, it was sort of entertaining. Somehow, we ended up in front of a group of American girls. Based on how they were talking, it seemed as though they were there as some sort of requirement, that there were certain piecies they had to see for class. These factors combined to produce one of my favorite quotes from my trip this far. Here we are, standing in line to see some of the greatest works of art by some of the greatest artists ever, and one girl utters: "Whatever. If we don't see them here it doesn't matter. They are all pretty famous; we can just look at them online." I found it quite amusing. Now, I am not trying to be pretentious here or anything, but what is the point of even going to the museum if you are content with just looking at the paintings in a book? Oh well, I didn's see them inside so I have nothing else to report of their art experience.

Back to the museum. Now, I was impressed by the lines outside, but even more impressed that there were lines to look at exhibits! We waited a bit for to see a Picasso/Manet exhibit that was really interesting. Then we wandered the "Impressionist Rooms" (I think that is what they labeled them) for a while. The building itself was really cool. Apparently, it was an old train station that closed. At one point, it was slated to be demolished but that plan was scrapped and it was turned into a museum. The architecture of it is really cool and there are these places where you can walk to the top and see the whole main part. It was really fun to picture trains in it amongst all the sculptures.

We left there and Hannah and I returned home to prepare for our dinner with the Manevitz's. As I mentioned in my earlier post, my friend Alex's parents were in Paris and offered to take us out to dinner. Alex, on the other hand, turned down the opportunity to come visit only to drop the one class that he would have missed if he came. That is right Alex, this is a direct call out in my blog. We will see if you are actually reading it. But its ok, I understand the importance of your studies, but it would have been great to see you!

Anyway, we met the Manevitz's at their hotel and walked to a nearby restaurant. It was such a fun dinner! First off the food was great. We enjoyed a delightful three courses, all of which were delicious. I've had some good food on my trip, but it is always nice to go out to a nice restaurant and have a different sort of food. The dinner lasted around three hours! Though, the time seemed to fly. The Manevitz's were so nice and I really enjoyed all of their stories, advice, and, of course, Mr. Manevitz's famous jokes.

After dinner, we went on a walk for a bit where we saw some sights, heard some more stories, and got a tour by the fashion stores of Paris. It was all very fun and quite intersting. Thanks so much to Alex for suggesting this dinner and to the Manevitz's for all their graciousness. It was really fun.

Sunday, as in many European cities, was market day. We chose to set out to the Clingancourt market. The market turned out to be a pretty interesting place. The layout was almost in two rings. The outer ring was where all the sort of knockoff, cheap, imitation stuff was and was filled with lots of people trying to sell everything from cigarettes to belts. Inside the next ring was where all the real gems were. Mostly, the vendors sold antiques of all varietys. It was different than all the other markets I have been to. In Berlin and London, there was a mix of really junky stuff with some more worthy things. In Paris, the antiques looked to be of much better quality. Sure, there was the occasional old slot machine or pin ball machine, but, for the most part, the furniture and stuff was really nice.

We would have loved to spend more time, but, unfortunately, the weather had taken a turn for the worse and it got dark and very cold. We got ourselves some pastries and headed back for tea which was really nice and relaxing. That is probably the best word to describe how I have been here. Relaxed. It has been super nice.

Anyway, Hannah did not have class Monday so she and I went off adventuring. After we picked up some delicious baguette sandwiches (I swear, whoever decided that butter was the condiment of choice on a sandwhich already filled with cheese and ham is a genious), we headed towards the Louvre; after all, how could I go to Paris and not see the Louvre? Now, this is a museum. Well maybe more like fifteen museums. The inside was so overwhelming; I've never seen an art museum of such expanses. Hannah gave me the statistic that, apparently, if you were to spend 30 seconds looking at every painting in the Louvre, you'd be there for three months straight. Wow! I believe it. The entire experience was pretty overwhelming.

The museum itself is beautiful: the architecture, the cielings. It was all really cool. I have a few particular things to say about the museum. 1. The Mona Lisa. Okay, I get it, it is rare, it is priceless, if it had a price the price would be astronomical. But, please, tell me why this is necessary: the painting is located inside a glass case, inside a wall; there were no less the three museum staff standing around it; there was a bannister, rail type thing extending about 5 or 6 feet out from the center; as if that was not enough, they had put up one of those ribbony-bannister things about 5 feet out from that. It was cool to see, but the extensive security precautions made it pretty hard to view and, I think, took away from it a little bit. But, alas, I think it is surely one of those things I would not have wanted to miss. 2. P.D.A. That is right, public display of affection. I'm not gonna take a stance on this because I could really care less but from an the stance of an objective observer I have never seen so much of it. Couples lined the halls of the museum on the little circular couches in the galleries and were just making out. No not kissing, full on making out. All ages: 18 - upper 60s. Must have been all that delightful art and the gross weather outside. And, well, it is Paris after all.

Post-Louvre, Hannah and I trekked to the train station. I needed to work out my EuRail pass as this is the first time I can use it. As I had heard, and came to find out, the romantic, freewheeling days of the EuRail pass are gone. Most trains require a reservation and many charge supplements. These are not the days where you could just jump on and off the train at any point and not worry about it seem to be over. So, I found myself face to face with the least helpful train ticket salesperson ever. Tomorrow, I am leaving for San Sebastian, Spain. The train line from Paris runs to Irun, Spain, just over the border, and from there it is only a short train ride to San Sebastian. Sounds easy enough. Wrong. Apparently, a variety of factors combined to complicate the situation. The lady would continually say, you can take this train, write it down, then say no and cross it all out. This happened many times followed by little advice on what I could actually do. Finally, I ended up with a ticket. I go from here to Bordeaux, where I transfer and get as far as Hendaye, France. The lady not so clearly assured me that this is not a problem. Apparently it is close to Irun. The only problem is that my train gets to Hendaye at 7:06, the last train leaves Irun for San Sebastian at 7:36. This is doable, I hear, but I will really have to run and there is no room for a late train or anything. I will have to find a cab or a bus or something and then will still have to get a reservation once I get on the train and that could be complicated too. We shall see. I am really trying to just tell myself to go with it and it will all work out. I am sure it will. But I am excited for my second train ride! Despite the hassles, this pass still saves a ton of money.

And as for my last day here, I went out to do some more exploring on my own. First, I went to see Notre Dame. It was one impressive cathedral; I'd have to say it ranks high on my list of ones I have seen so far. It fits somewhere in there with the cathedral at the Prague Castle. After wandering there for a while, I went just across the bridge to Shakespeare & Co. I really needed a new book and I also wanted to check out the legendary bookshop. For those who don't know, the original Shakespeare & Co. closed during the second world war. It had been quite the literary hotspot with authors such as Hemingway hanging out there, and the owner Sylvia Beach was famous for publishing books banned elsewhere such as James Joyce's Ulysses. The current Shakespeare & Co. was opened by an American after World War II and the connection seems to be one of admiration and a similar draw for literary greats. The founder was famous for really just opening the place up to everyone and allowing young traveler and writers to stay in the upstairs and work a few hours in the bookstore. The place attracted many of the beat poets, particularly Allen Ginsberg, and is just full of all sorts of fun books, pictures, messages, and history in general. The founder's daughter owns it now and has tightened business but still allows for people to stay in the upstairs, just far less than before.

It was a really cool, funky, fun spot that doesn't seem to have lost a ton of its charm in the face of its popularity. I found some books (if I keep reading a lot my bag is going to gain some serious weight!), and set off on another literary expedition: Pere Lachaise Cemetary. It is filled with the graves of many a famous person. I was particularly interested in seeing the grave of Oscar Wilde as I had heard something about a lot of lipstick. The graveyard itself is filled with some of the most impressive gravestones/monuments I've ever seen. When I finally found Wilde amongst all the others, I saw what everyone meant. Across all of it wer tons of imprints. Apparently, it is a tradition for admirers of Wilde to kiss the monument with lipstick on. It was quite something. Despite the plaque that says not to deface the tomb and the memory of Wilde, the kisses keep on comin'.

A further tour through the graveyard and I set off to find something for dinner. I promised Rebecca and Hannah that I would cook for them and didn't want to let them down after their wonderful hospitality. I got what I needed and set off to the apartment. It was probably one of the harder environments I have cooked in. First of all, the light is out in the kitchen and has yet to be replaced (it is not just the bulb but the circuit itself). Second, the kitchen is about the size of a size 10 shoebox. Third, the knobs for the burner and the oven have been worn so much that there are no numbers left on them. It was a bit of a trying experience but I think I prevailed and we enjoyed a nice dinner together on my last night.

So it is off to Spain tomorrow! I must say, Spain is one of the places I have been most excited for since I set off. I am not sure what my draw to it is but I look forward to discovering it and figuring it out. My time in Paris was great! Though, I must resolve to return at so point as there is just so much to see. I could not have asked for a better place to say (recall the view of the Eiffel tower) with better people. Thanks so much to Rebecca and Hannah for everything! Good luck with the rest of the semester and enjoy Paris!

Spain (hopefully San Sebastian), here I come! Hope all is well.